With Mr. Aite Bhandari and Team, our Guest Aline Dupla and Alain Ramel from France, we successfully completed GHT West Nepal Jumla to Jomsom trek on 24 August 2017.
It was about 33 days trip and 29 days trekking without a rest day.
As per our schedule, we took flight from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj on 25th July 2017.Though it was monsoon we had regular flight.
Nepalgunj is the humid city of Nepal located in Western Nepal and is also a hub of fly out/into rural western Nepal.
We took our flight to Jumla on 26th July 2017 and we were welcomed by all our crews from Dolpa.
For simplicity I had broken down the trip into following stages;
Stage 1 – Jumla to Rara Lake
It was the first part of the trek, after landing at Khalanga airport Jumla, we were welcomed by our crew and had lunch at Kanjiruwa Hotel Jumla and proceeded for 3 hours from Khalanga to Chyarechaur was our first night camp.
By next day passing the Danphe Lagna we had Lunch at Khali, and trekked about 4 hours more Kapracave.In Capracave there is a house and suitable for only 2-3 tents for small group.
Further leaving the Capra cave, via Chautha, Bulbule and passing Gurchi Lagna along the lush vegetation we descended to Dotu village. And next day ascending to Jyari village we reached Rara Lake.
Stage 2 – Rara to Shiranchaur
Actually, we were supposed to do Mugu to Phot village via Jhonpala Pass but due to River size of Namlang we changed our route and followed GHT high route.
Rara to Shiranchaur is quite easy trail due to new road connection. From Rara Lake the trail descend down to ‘Ghamgadi’ headquater of Mugu district. Further trail descended down to river called Ghat, and crossing a small river the trail leads along the Mugu Karnali River via Lumsa, Dungedhara and Pulu.
In Pulu there is a police check post and it is center for ‘Karmarong Village Committee’.
After 2 hours from Pulu, Tiyar Gompa was across the River and Tiyar Chorten is on the way. We continued to follow Mugu Karnali River.There is another route that goes crossing Mugu Karnali via Tiyar Gompa through Kimri, Kartike and Dolphu which connects Dolpo and Mugu via Jhonpala Pass. We were supposed to do this route but due to increased in Namlang River and rainy slipper rocky trail local people suggested us to change the route and we decided to do GHT High route.
Following further to the north of Tiyar confluence after 2 hours we reached at Ladhe Ghat where we stop for lunch.
After lunch we continued the trail along Chidai Bagar and Mugu Karnali then we reached at Shiranchaur.
Stage 3- Shiranchaur to Phot village – Immersion into the wilderness
From Shiranchaur the trail sinkeintoto the wilderness for a week long. Leaving the Shiranchaur following Chhapa Khola and lush vegetation along the river side we reached at ThajuChaur, ‘a beautiful campsite’.
From Thajuchaur following the river stream of Thaju Khola headed to Chyargo La basecamp 4700m.
And next morning crossing the Chyargo La 5150m we descend down to Takla Khola. It is the confluence of Chhapa Khola and Takla Khola.
Leaving the Takla Khola across the wooded bridge from the left side we ascended to 4300m ridge , then again continued to 4500m and finally at Jack pass 4600m.
From Jack Pass the trail curved for 1.30 hours along the rocky and pastureland then soon meets a Laptse and descends to Chyandi Khola.
Along the birch trees and Chyandi Khola river bank the trail continues for 2 hours and the next is Chyandi Khola cave camp.
Following the Chyandi Khola along the Yarsagumba harvesting camp, we headed to Yala Pass 5414m and descended to Pung Kharka 4700m.
Leaving Pung Kharka along the Daldong Khola we entered to Daldong Khor and ascended to Nimagyalzen La 5700m.
It was long day, we trekked about 12 hours because there was no camping place and water available before Phot village. All the crew were tired and finally at 8 pm we reach at Phot Village.
Stage 4- Phot village to Nangkhong valley
Phot village is an isolated village of Upper Dolpo. There are only 14 housesholds who lives in harsh geographic setting.
As per local people, there were more than 100 households in many years ago but due to water scarcity and remote topography many people had shifted/moved to Bhijer and low land.
Leaving the Phot village we descended to the Tora Khola and crossing a wooden bridge we ascended to Patalchaur 4200m.
From the Patalchaur crossing Yumbur La 4818m we descended to Bhijer village. After Bhijer, following the Yamcho Khola and Pho Khola crossing Neng La pass 5368m we descended to southward a long way pasture and hillside for 1.30 hours easy going trail and soon after the long hill trail we saw spread and scattered Saldang village, Nakhong valley, Nakhong River and trail to Komash village.
Saldang’s old name was Nakhong valley, which has villages like; Saldang, Namdo, Cha Gaon, Karang, Marang, Sibuk, Tiling, Nisal, Musi gaon.
Leaving the Saldang we crossed Nakhong Khola and ascended to Komash pass 4460m and descended to Komash Gaon.
Stage 5- Nangkhong Valley to Panzang valley
From Komash Gaon the trail was continued to curved upto Koran Khola and it ascended for 30 minutes to 1st Laptse and trail curved again for 30m minutes and descending Shimen Pass 4260m we descended in Shimen village and continued to Mendo Camp site.
After Mendo Camp on next day within a 10 minutes there is a Gompa across river was Pu Gompa and along the Panzang khola an about 4.30 hours walk was Tinje village.
Stage 6- Panzang valley to Chharka Bhot
Leaving Tinje village to the eastward all the following Upper Panzang river we reached at Taraka Sumduwa in about 2 hours, a confluence of Sulun Khola which leads to Dho Tarap via Chhoila pass and Kehein Khola which leads to Mo La pass along the river.We followed Khein Khola for 5 hours and reached at Rapka/Ramankheng. There were three possible camping sites which can be reached from Tinje , 1st Ramankheng in 5.30 hours , 2nd Ramankheng in 6 hours and 3rd Ghajyan Sumna across river in 7 hours.We camped at 3rd Ghajyan Sumna to reach Chharka on time.
And next day we followed Lakkyan Khola and ascended gradually to Mo La pass 5027m in 3 hours and descended long with looping several times to Chharka village.
Stage 7- Chharka Bhot to Jomsom
Chharka to Jomsom was last part of our trek. Leaving the Chharka village the trail continued to the east uninhabited valley. After the Chharka village the trail winds passing Mani walls and suspension bridge below the dry cliffs. With slight ups and down soon reach at Tulsi Kharka, a confluence of Chharka Tulsi Khola and Thasan Khola. Following the Chharka Tulsi Khola the trail leads to Upper Mustang via Ghami pass and to Lomanthang via Kekyap pass.
But we followed Thasan Khola, across the suspension bridge an ascent through sandstone and draping cliff. After ascending cliff the trail heads to Southwards with gradual climb and stony trail reached at Yalkhang meadow near Yalku Khola in 2 hours. Crossing the Yalku Khola along the long and open valley of Thasan Khola, wide and plain sets below the high barren hills continues to South is Nulungsumda.
Leaving Nulungsumda, the trail heads southwards to easy climbed on Niwas La 5120m within 45 minutes from Nulungsumda. After Niwas La we headed long transverse about 2 hours we conquered Jungben La pass 5550m. The panoramic views of Hidden Valley, Dhapus peak, Tashikang, Thorong La pass, Chuyu peaks were breath taking. Then we descended down through short step in to barren and empty valley Lhanhimar Khola.
About 30 -40 minutes south east was Santa Bhanjyang wrapped by prayers flag. From here the trail is steep drop through loose chips of slates and Shale, rocky, muddy was torturous descent to Ghalden.
Leaving the Ghalden the trail drops down along sandy ridges and junipers trees to Kyalungpa Khola. Crossing suspension bridge the trail climbs 20 minutes up and then transverses along rocky and sandy cliffs soon encounters a small col wrapped by prayers flag. Soon the trail drop down to Dundok Khola and trasverses to Mukchun Khola and the next is Santa village.
Trial from Santa to Jomsom is easy with newly constructed road. Leaving the Santa the trail ascent up a Santa ridge and looping across Panch Patan for 3 hours we reached at Bhima Lojun La.
After Bhima Lojun La the trail slightly drop down and climb up Phelak La and descended to Phalek village.
Leaving the Phalek village and Dagarjun village we climbed up a ridge and drop down to Jomsom in 3 hours.
….and finally fly out from Jomsom….